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Indic Handlooms
File № 18 Cotton GI 2010

Mangalagiri.

Mangalagiri · మంగళగిరి
Definition

Andhra Pradesh's reversible cotton — woven on pit looms in the temple town of Mangalagiri, with a signature nizam border in pure gold or copper zari.

Town Mangalagiri
State Andhra Pradesh & Telangana
River Krishna
First woven 5th c.
GI status GI 2010
Active weavers ~13,000 looms
Photo: Durgarao Vuddanti · CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia)

Andhra Pradesh's reversible cotton — woven on pit looms in the temple town of Mangalagiri, with a signature nizam border in pure gold or copper zari.

01 Section 01 · Origin

Cotton from the temple town.

Mangalagiri is named for a temple-town just outside Vijayawada in Andhra Pradesh. The Narasimha Swamy temple sits on the hill above the weaving village; the saree is said to have been first woven for the temple's deity. Weaving in Mangalagiri is documented from at least the 16th century.

The textile received its GI tag in 2010. About 13,000 looms are active in Mangalagiri and surrounding Guntur district, mostly run by Padmasaali weaver families.

02 Section 02 · Technique

Plain weave, nizam border.

Mangalagiri sarees are 80s × 80s thread count cotton — a fine, durable weave that machine-washes well. The defining feature is the nizam border: a broad, contrasting-colour band of plain weave with a thin line of gold zari at the inner edge. The pallu carries the same nizam structure, sometimes with small zari motifs.

Importantly, the body is plain — no design — which gives the saree its everyday character. Weaving takes 3–5 days per six-yard. The cotton is sourced locally; the zari comes from Surat.

03 In-store authenticity

How to spot a real one.

Field check · five checks
  1. 01 Nizam border A real Mangalagiri has a wide, plain-coloured contrast border with a thin zari line at the inner edge. The signature is the broad contrast band, not just the zari.
  2. 02 Plain body The body is plain — no motifs woven into it. Embroidered or jacquard bodies indicate a different saree.
  3. 03 Cotton burn test Pure 80s × 80s cotton burns to grey ash. Polyester-blend "Mangalagiri" melts.
  4. 04 Selvedge Handloom selvedge is slightly hand-tied and uneven. Machine versions have a smooth serged edge.
  5. 05 GI 2010 mark Look for the "Mangalagiri Sarees and Fabrics" GI tag or the APCO (Andhra Pradesh State Handloom Weavers Cooperative) label.
04 Care & storage

Living with it.

Machine-wash gentle
One of the most washable Indian handlooms — machine-wash on a delicate cycle with mild detergent. The fine cotton survives well.
Iron damp on cotton setting
Iron while slightly damp on the highest cotton setting; avoid direct heat on the zari border.
Line-dry in shade
Direct sun fades the contrast border. Hang indoors or in shade.
Refold storage
Store folded between cotton sheets. The fine cotton resists fold-line damage well.