Assam's endemic golden silk.
Muga silk is found nowhere else on earth. The silk-moth Antheraea assamensis feeds only on Som (Persea bombycina) and Soalu trees that grow exclusively in the Brahmaputra valley. The cocoons produce a thread that is naturally golden and lustrous — without any dye.
The textile has been woven in Assam continuously since at least the Ahom dynasty (13th century onward). Muga Silk received its GI tag in 2007. About 29,000 artisan families are registered in the Muga cluster, primarily around Sualkuchi — "the Manchester of Assam".
Hand-reeled, frame-loom-woven.
Muga silk is reeled from cocoons by hand and woven on a traditional throw-shuttle frame loom. The yarn is unique among Indian silks for its durability — Muga garments famously survive three generations, gaining lustre with age.
The signature Assamese garment is the Mekhela Chador, a two-piece drape worn at every major occasion. Muga can be woven plain (for everyday use) or with figured motifs in the pallu and border using extra-weft figured weaving.
How to spot a real one.
- 01 Natural golden colour Real Muga has a warm, slightly uneven golden tone — never bleached white. Dyed Muga (red, maroon) still shows the gold undertone against light.
- 02 Yarn unevenness Hand-reeled Muga has slight yarn variations and slubs. Machine-spun "Muga" imitations are perfectly uniform.
- 03 Generational test Muga becomes glossier with age and gentle washing — opposite to most silks. A test wash on a small area should brighten, not dull, the silk.
- 04 Burn test A loose thread burns slowly with a hair-burning smell and crushable ash. Polyester "Muga" melts.
- 05 GI 2007 / ARTFED tag Look for the "Muga Silk of Assam" GI mark or the ARTFED (Assam Apex Weavers and Artisans Co-op) label.
Living with it.
- Hand-wash cold (yes, really)
- Unlike most silks, plain Muga can be hand-washed cold — it actually brightens with gentle washing. Use Reetha (soapnut) liquid or mild silk-safe detergent.
- Air-dry in shade
- Direct sun is too harsh; line-dry in shade. Mekhela Chador sets should be dried flat.
- No wringing
- Press water out between towels. Wringing breaks the long Muga filaments.
- Iron on silk setting, damp
- Iron damp on the lowest silk setting; high heat dulls the natural golden sheen.